ROYAL HAWAIIAN TREAT!
Review by Sheryll Alexander
How is it that I’ve lived in OC all my life and have never heard of Royal Hawaiian? That seems rather impossible as this casual eatery and historic landmark has been at this same seaside location since 1947 and I’ve been eating around OC as a restaurant critic for many years now.
So, it was fun for our family to find a rather reasonable restaurant for lunch or dinner in one of our favorite haunts – North Laguna Beach. Located just steps away from the Laguna Beach Art Museum and gorgeous Heisler Park, Royal Hawaiian sits a bit hidden on PCH—except for the always-open door and a large blue-and-gold sign fringed by palm fronds.
Once inside, the small dining room (you can also sit at the adjacent bar) is cozy with leather booths and four-top tables that can be pushed together nicely for a big crowd. Once more of a shack, the restaurant was literally renovated from top to bottom a few years back and we enjoyed the minimalist and modern décor with no tiki kitsch in sight.
While the décor is more modern, the menu is still old school. And in a good way. Entrées and combo plates (like steaks, ribs, chicken, fresh fish, shrimp, scallops and even lobster) come in rather large portions and include a delightful and gooey French onion-inspired miso soup, an absolutely delicious cut iceberg salad with the restaurant’s signature “ono ono” (akin to bleu cheese) dressing and a huge baked potato with all the fixings.
But I digress. When at the Royal Hawaiian, it is best to start with a very strong and tasty tropical cocktail. We enjoyed the lapu lapu (light rum, dark rum, pineapple, orange and passion fruit juices) and it only took the small-sized version to feel that alcohol kick. The by-the-glass wine list is also reasonably priced and some of the choices are quite decent.
If you are celebrating, order your cocktail and then a few appetizers for the table. We were surprised at the fresh quality of the ahi poki here and the innovative shrimp bruschetta. Other not-to-be-missed appetizers include coconut shrimp, pork sliders, ribs and shrimp, onion rings and cheese burger sliders.
The Pele (Goddess of Fire) dessert is a simple chocolate sundae lit on fire to the surprise of little ones and adults alike.
Also, don’t miss happy hour on Mondays-Thursdays from 4-7 p.m. when appetizers cost just $5, beers start at $3 and a small lapu lapu is just $5. Most Thursdays and every Friday and Saturday starting at 10 p.m., you can catch live musical entertainment in the bar.
Monday – Friday: bar opens at 4 p.m. and dining starts at 5 p.m.
Saturdays and Sundays: open at 11 a.m.
331 N. Coast Hwy. in Laguna Beach. 949.494.8001.
Sheryll Alexander is a freelance lifestyles writer based in Costa Mesa, Calif.
