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Tasting Tijuana

12.12.12

We would never want to encourage you to do anything dangerous, and that’s why we say traveling to Tijuana and Baja is as safe as going to Los Angeles or say, Laguna Beach. If you’re scared, don’t believe the hype. We’ve been to Tijuana at least a dozen times in the last few years, and never come close to a problem, except for the interminable lines crossing the border into San Diego.

On a bad day, you can plan on sitting in your car and moving just a few feet for up 3 hours or more; on a good day, a crossing could take 45 minutes. The wait has little to do with time of day, yet weekends are especially brutal.

If you know where to go, and what to do you’re in for one of the best food experiences of your life, plus you can bring back some great treasures for friends and family: artisan cheeses, extra virgin olive oils, artisan honeys, giant cinnamon sticks, Tequila, fantastic Tempranillos and much more.

Photo to left: Cheeses at Mercado Hidalgo

On our most recent trip to Tijuana, Ensenada and the beautiful wine country Valle de Guadalupe, we hit the Mercado Hidalgo first in Tijuana,  at Av. Independencia and Sanchez Taboada. It’s an open air locals market for fresh tortillas, candies, artisan cheeses, dried chilies, spices, moles, hard-to-find produce, giant cinnamon sticks, pottery, votive candles, and much more. Don’t leave without ordering a bowl of birria at El Rincón del Oso, it’s their famous goat soup served with fresh tortillas. Hungry for the best ceviche and shrimp tacos you’ve ever tasted? Make your way over to two of our favorite spots: Erizo Baja Fish House and Market (Ave. Sonora 3808 Fracc. Chapultepec C.P. 22020 in Tijuana) and to Mariscos el Mazateño (22414 Tijuana at in Tijuana.)

 

Erizo Baja Fish House and Market is a sophisticated, yet casual eatery owned by Tijuana’s rock star chef, Javier Plascencia, a proud Tijuana native who as reported in the New York Times is on a mission to revitalize the culinary scene in Tijuana, and the city itself. At Erizo, you’re in for some of the best in Baja specialties: delicious  shrimp and squid ceviche, ceviche tostados, fresh oysters, and our favorite octopus tacos with cheese, fresh pico de gallo and avocado. Be sure to order a Plascencia’s hand selected local beers, or a refreshing pisco sour, to round out your meal.

Photo to right: Erizo Baja Fish House

For to-die-for shrimp tacos,  you’ll want to make it over to Mariscos el Mazateño (22414 Tijuana at Tijuana, Baja California), a far more casual spot than Erizo’s , and not nearly as modern, yet the camarones enchilado, will be one of the best chili shrimp tacos you’ve had in your life. You’ll want to put as much pico de gallo, shredded cabbage and sauce that your heart desires, and you’ll be dreaming of these tacos all the way home.

While in Tijuana, if you need a place to stay, try the Hotel Ticuán, on Calle Octava (8th St.) between Revolución and Constitución, right downtown. Except for the power outage when we arrived, and the jacket that went missing on the bellhop’s watch, the Hotel Ticuán feels very much like a Marriott at home, only it’s dirt cheap. Plan on spending about $60 for a room.

You’ll love the location, it’s within walking distance to the great spots like the famed Caesar’s hotel/restaurant, and a fantastic dive bar, El Dandy del Sur. Grab a table or a bar stool at El Dandy and order a cold Indio, a cocktail, and some tasty bar snacks like chicharrones, peanuts and carne seca (sort of like beef jerky, but better, this comes with lime juice and picante.) They’ll be plenty of interesting people at the bar, it’s a “hip” part of town, and you’re in charge of the music, the digital jukebox plays English and Spanish hits.

Photo to left: Hotel Ticuán

If you’re like us, no matter where you are, at some point you’re going to want some great coffee. And that’s where Das Cortez comes in. It’s a tiny gourmet barista coffee stand that serves heavenly coffees made to order. (Brasil 8920, 22040 Tijuana.) Now if all of this sounds too scary for you, by all means, stay home. It will make the border crossing that much faster for the rest. We’re just sorry that you’ll be missing out on the experiences and culinary finds in Tijuana.

 

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Travel Berlin

10.22.12

Long before we arrived to Germany's capital, we had heard that it’s like New York City was in the early 80s: the art is fantastic, it’s not commercialized, cafes, nightclubs, street art and culture are everywhere. It’s all true. The city is immense, it’s the largest city in Germany and the New York Times says it’s 8 times the size of Paris, but no worries, public transportation is first rate via its fabulous modern Hauptbahnhof (central railway station) with shops and casual eateries, and whether permitting, it’s an ideal city to navigate on a bike.


We were fortunate to stay at the Adrema Hotel, literally on the river Spree,  and in the Mitte (middle) borough of Berlin. It’s only about a 20 minute taxi ride from the Berlin Tegel Airport, and if you’re lucky enough to book a direct flight from Los Angeles on Airberlin you’ll only have a comfortable 11 hour flight with your own on-demand touch screen TV to sit through.

At the Adrema, all rooms are modern, simple, and have nice touches like goose down comforters and better than a pillow mint--German gummi bears at nightly turn-down service. We stayed a week and rates fluctuated from $60 to $80 per night, a similar hotel would have cost us $325 in Los Angeles. In the morning, you’ll also have the option to enjoy an elaborate breakfast spread with sausages, yogurts, cereals, fruits, pastries, juices, coffees and teas, and an entire host of jams and seeded breads to choose from. For those that want spa services, there’s that too, and a restaurant and bar for easy access dining.

The hotel is close to the Kurfürstendamm, the “it” boulevard for shopping, hotels, and dining, it’s considered the Champs-Élysées of Berlin. It’s also near the Victory Column (a major tourist attraction) and other well known landmarks like the Brandenburg Gate the Reichstag building, and other famed government buildings.

There’s so much to see and do in Berlin, the opera, museums, historic sights, dining, and shopping that unless you can stay weeks, you’ll never be able to get it all in. Here are our highlights:

Culture and Entertainment

Berlin’s Museum Island–is an ensemble of five world renowned museums that includes the Pergamon, one of the world’s finest museums featuring extensive archaeological collections that you won’t see anywhere else, as well as classic antiquities, Islamic art and Middle Eastern artifacts. Other museums include the Bode Museum featuring an extensive collection of sculptures and treasures of the Museum of Byzantine Art and the Numismatic Collection; the Neues Museum, home to the Egyptian Museum and the Museum of Prehistory and Early History, and boasts the bust of Nefertiti; the Alte Nationalgalerie features the works of Classicism, Romanticism, the Biedermeier era, Impressionism and early Modernism; and the Altes Museum (Old Museum) is closed for renovation.

 

 

Catch a show at the Chamaleon Theatre in the Hackescher Höfe, a lively entertainment and cultural venue that’s actually a courtyard complex of eight interconnected courtyards. It’s home to residential areas, crafts, trade and street art.

Dining and Bars

Pizza meets punk rock at Cucina Casalinga Pizzeria & Trattoria. Expect to see your favorite posters of the punk rock era, and enjoy some of the best gourmet pizzas and toss it yourself giant salads.

There’s nothing quite like Kater Holzig, it’s part adult playground, party house, artist hang-out, bar and restaurant on the river Spree. There can easily be a raucous 48 hour party happening at any time, outdoors neat the fire pit or at “beachside” bar, or in one of the many rambling rooms in the complex. The most tame of all venues, would be Katerschmaus, the gourmet restaurant on the top floor of the club. You can enjoy a gourmet seasonal menu that’s one of the best in the city and a definite must for anyone visiting.


Transit, is just a great Thai and Indonesian restaurant. All food is fresh and delicious, served in small bowls, that’s ideal for sharing.

New Odessa Bar, is one of best bars in Berlin. The corner cocktail bar corner is stylish, the atmosphere is first rate, and it’s great place to stop in for a Moscow Mule.

Club der Visionaere, is a canal-side bar that is perfect anytime of the day. You can sit outside under a giant weeping willow, or go inside the bar that features local talent performing throughout the day.


The bottom line is make Berlin your next European destination. You’ll be more than happy that you did, plus you’ll find new experiences and memories to share with friends and family. 

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