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DECADENT NORTHERN BAJA

11.12.10

By Sue Facter

Who knew Northern Baja would be quite the hidden gem? It turns out Northern Baja is a sumptuous feast for all the senses.

Despite reports of random violence in border towns, this is a luxurious trip worth taking, especially if you are a connoisseur of Baja-Med cuisine, one-of-a-kind B&Bs, an organic way of life and world-renowned spas good enough for several of our nation’s First Ladies (not kidding!).

Bordering San Diego due south, Northern Baja is just a hop, skip and a jump by auto from Orange County. Depending on where you’re headed, all of the luxurious resorts described below are just a leisurely hour-and-a-half or maybe two-hour drive down the 5 Freeway.

Our recent six-day trip to scenic Northern Baja included a visit to metropolitan Tijuana as well as the region’s wine country with spectacular mountain, desert and Pacific Ocean terrains along the way. And did you know Northern Baja holds one of the best resort spas in the entire world?

Did we worry about our safety? Nope, we didn’t have a worry in sight. The time we spent in Tijuana was just like a visit to Manhattan where you are bombarded with groundbreaking culture. Yeah, you still gotta watch your back in Tijuana just like any other urban center.

Still got the jitters? Al Gore, Wikipedia’s Jimmy Wales, Twitter’s Biz Stone, President Felipe Calderon, Wired’s Chris Anderson, CNN’s Larry King (and many more) all gathered along with us in Tijuana for Tijuana Innovadora. Held at the lovely Tijuana Cultural Center, this international conference showcases Northern Baja as a historic as well as forward-thinking center for innovative technology, culture, art and design.

When driving through Tijuana on your way to Northern Baja wine country, it is mandatory to stop at one (or more) of the city’s hottest dining establishments. Don’t miss La Diferenca, Caesars (home of the “Caesar” salad innovator and handsome proprietor Javier Plascencia), Cocina Baja Med, El Trompo (at the Interactive Museum), AquaCaliente (Greyhound Racetrack and Casino), Country Club Golf Course, Real Del Mar, LA Cetto Winery, Casa de la Cultura, Rincon San Roman Winery and Restaurant Puerto Nuevo 11 (for the traditional lobster).

Where do you stay when visiting Northern Baja? Here are four luxurious, comfortable, exotic and peaceful destinations in Norther Baja that are but a two-hour drive from OC:

La Villa del Valle, Valle de Guadeloupe (Ensenada Wine Country)
If one area in Northern Baja wine country denotes privacy, it’s La Villa del Valle. This small, luxurious bed-and-breakfast inn is located in Ensenada’s scenic wine country. Owned by Brit-born Phil and Eileen Gregory (former entrepreneurs in the music and film industries who have worked with Madonna, Beetles, Rolling Stones), La Villa del Valle feels like you are living on a family farm in a Tuscan villa.

At the end of an unpaved two-mile drive sits this one-of-a-kind resort. Yes, La Villa del Valle is a relaxing sanctuary with panoramic views of the Guadalupe Valley. The atmosphere is casual. We were greeted by one of the owners’ rescue dogs. You can smell the fragrant lavender while walking through the farm and fruit-and-vegetable gardens, where the organic meal of the day is grown. These 70 acres are a little piece of all-from-right-here heaven with a guarantee of fresh eggs from chickens, wine from the vineyards and bath products from olive and organic essential oils.

Housing six guest rooms, which have balconies with killer views, La Villa del Valle contains collectible furnishings and art pieces from the Gregory’s round-the-world travels. We toured in awe of each new discovery, as everything had a back story (including the resort’s many and varied weddings).

What is there to do in such a faraway place? Everyone comes here to relax, so the most strenuous activities of the day are yoga, tai chi and chi gong classes. Some play a chill game of Euro-style bocce. Still other guests are found meditating in a private nook or lounging in beds for two by the oversized pool. And what to drink by the pool at La Villa del Valle? The resort’s own wine is a popular choice while those wanting something more healthy sip on La Via tea with mint, lavender roses and lemongrass.

Hacienda Guadalupe, Valle de Guadaloupe (Ensenada Wine Country)
A short drive away is Hacienda Guadalupe. Former OC residents and high-school sweeties, Gabrielle Sanchez and Daniel Melchum, own the hotel and newly-opened restaurant. The Baja-Med menu here changes daily. We love the tiradito (a capriccio drink), pumpkin soup, risotto, grilled sea bass, quail and a sugarless Mexican flan with peppercorns grown just outside.

Although not a B&B, Hacienda Guadalupe has the intimacy of a private hacienda. The hotel has 12 rooms (all with balconies) and overlooks vineyards and the mountains.

The grounds look like an architect’s dream and houses four acres of vineyards with merlot, sauvignon and tempranillo grapes. Hacienda Guadalupe was built with rustic, natural materials like lava stone, locally hand-crafted clay roof tiles and bricks and generous utilization of fine wood throughout this contemporary hacienda-style property.

Hotel Coral and Marina, Ensenada
If you’re craving a beachside getaway, you can’t miss checking into Hotel Coral and Marina. Known as Ensenada’s best hotel, Hotel Coral and Marina has 147 ocean view rooms with balconies. At the Hotel Coral, you get a sweet champagne-and-rum welcome drink upon your arrival. Plus, the hotel’s sushi bar is reasonable and packed with hungry guests.

There is nothing “junior” about its junior suite with all the amenities of home. The weekday breakfast buffet at the resort’s Antares restaurant is like an American Sunday brunch/Thanksgiving dinner, including turkey and trimmings. (We are told organic is a “way of life” in this area!) In addition, Hotel Coral has a spa, a fitness room and a harbor where VIPs (we can’t name all, but think Nick Cage) dock their vessels.

And if you are looking for the ultimate indulgence, Hotel Coral provides a door-to-door shuttle service from OC.

Rancho La Puerta, Tecate
On top of many bucket lists is a visit to Rancho La Puerta Spa. Located in Tecate (meaning “ranch at the door”), Rancho La Puerta is located just 30 miles southeast of San Diego.

Owned by 88-year old Deborah Szekely, who also founded The Golden Door, this relaxing 150-acre resort caters to Americans. Szekely and her late husband, Edmond, opened Rancho La Puerta in 1940. At Rancho La Puerta, guests can hike on 40 miles of trails, which range from rolling meadow walks to strenuous mountain hikes. The spa resort has more than 70 indoor and outdoor activities daily including the latest exercise programs like The Bar Method and striptease class.

Named “World’s Best Destination Spa” by Travel +Leisure, Rancho La Puerta has been a spa vacation home to First Ladies Hilary Clinton and Michelle Obama (not together!) and hundreds of other celebrities over the decades. Plus, just some of the guest lecturers at this hot spa resort include Bill Moyers, Madeline Albright, Jane Fonda and Erika Jong.

From the semi-vegetarian spa cuisine (includes fresh fish) to the private casitas (with private entrances), Rancho La Puerta is VIP all the way. One highlight is the three-starred Tres Estrellas organic garden. Here in the garden is where groups visit during a breakfast hike, where lunch is served and where dinner is savored.

Rancho La Puerta is actually home to three health and beauty centers each staffed by skilled estheticians and therapists who have been widely trained and often cross-trained in several disciplines. The treatments use aromatic and medicinal herbs and other healing plants grown in the organic gardens at Tres Estrellas. The signature spa treatment is called “The Five Elements Body Treatment” and it was created to balance the Qi energy of body and mind by releasing blocked emotions and restoring equilibrium.

OCers may be interested in Rancho La Puerta’s “Saturdays at the Ranch” programs. These one-day culinary adventures feature a cooking demonstration, fitness class and spa adventure. Transportation is provided from San Diego and requires a 7:15 a.m. check-in.

Need another reason to visit Northern Baja? The climate is temperate Mediterranean much like San Diego. And although we visited during a freak autumn rain week, it never dampened our spirits. Why? Every evening, after a day of adventuring, we experienced (with margarita in hand) the most amazing sunsets in the world.

Los Angeles-based journalist, Sue Facter, is a connoisseur of luxury travel and a 20-year contributor to USA Today.

The Art of Doing Mexico City

11.01.10

By Greer Wylder

If you are looking for a vacation that mixes in arts, culture, food and history, then Mexico City will exceed the expectations of even the most seasoned traveler. It boasts more museums than any other city in the world, shopping at famed designer boutiques, incredible restaurants, handicraft stores and art galleries.

And it’s no surprise that in one of the world’s greatest cities, there’s a new elegant St. Regis Mexico City in an architecturally spectacular building designed by famed architect Cesar Pelli, who coincidentally also designed the Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert.

On a recent trip to St. Regis Mexico City, I was fortunate enough to experience the hotel’s unsurpassed luxury that made me feel like home ... but even better. You’ll have a personalized butler who will unpack your suitcase, iron your clothes, bring you chocolate dipped strawberries at night, a newspaper and fresh roasted coffee or tea in the morning. They’re literally there for you during your entire stay.

The St Regis Mexico City is in a prime location overlooking the historic Paseo de la Reforma, a magnificent boulevard of architectural wonder. The hotels boasts spectacular views of the city and Chapultepec Park, twice the size of Central Park in New York City, from almost every room (including its exercise studio, indoor swimming pool and salon).

Hotel is home to Remède Spa, the resort’s signature spa that offers world-class beauty and massage treatments.

And if you’re purely on a trip of culinary indulgences, you came to the right place. In a city that should be a contender for being the world’s greatest food city (whether you’re eating street food or dining at a five-star restaurant you will be in for a treat), the St. Regis Mexico City offers a heightened selection of what the city has to offer: Exceptional dining at the intimate fine-dining Decanter Room with wine tasting menus, and all-day contemporary Mexican cuisine at Diana as well as the King Cole Bar where you can’t leave until you’ve tried their signature Bloody Mary, this one is called the Sangrita Maria—an enticing blend of Mezcal, sangrita and a dash of pasilla chile puree. Relax on the terrace with small plates and refreshing drinks anytime of the day with enjoy perfect views of the famous Fountain of Diana the Huntress, the golden Angel of Independence statue and Chapultepec Castle.

It’s going to be challenging to narrow it down to things to see and do in Mexico City. It’s like trying to see the Smithsonian in one-day, simply impossible. Here are some excellent choices that could make the top of your vacation list:

Museo Frida Kahlo: The Casa Azul or Blue House in Coyoacan was the family home of famous artist and wife of painter Diego Rivera. They lived here during the last 14 years of her life. Their home, decorated with Mexican arts and crafts, allows visitors a glimpse into the private life of these eccentric artists.

Chapultepec: A centuries-old forest encircles a castle, zoo, amusement parks and lakes; and it’s less than 1 kilometer away from the hotel.

Centro Historico: You can explore the ruins of Tenochtitlan, the old Aztec capital. Must-see sites include the Templo Mayor, the Metropolitan Cathedral, and fine 19th and 20th-century public buildings such as the Palacio de las Bellas Artes.

Xochimilco: The chinampas, or “floating gardens,” courtesy of the Aztecs, were an ingenious agricultural technique that created land to grow crops on the lake. Take a ride in a boat along the canals to get a glimpse of artificial islands built since the 16th century and during the colonial period.

Teotihuacan: Home to the temple of Quetzalcoatl and the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon. It’s about 25 miles outside of Mexico City, this archaeological site is worth a day trip. The “city of the gods” was once a major urban center from 200 BC to 800 AD.

For toll-free reservations, call 866.675.4029.

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