Greer's OC

Dining

FIVE CROWNS MODERNIZES WONDERFULLY!

08.06.11

Review by Sheryll Alexander

The old timbered beams overhead, the slightly creaky floors and the well-dressed servers (no longer in controversial wench outfits) still welcome you to Corona Del Mar’s iconic Five Crowns restaurant, but the interior and the menu have been revamped most wonderfully.

Yes, Five Crowns has finally come into the 21^st Century and in a very California “casual elegant” style or so we thought when we entered the main dining room after a months-long renovation that closed down the restaurant.

What does Five Crowns look like now? Dark paneled walls are painted a sunny, cozy and muted golden mustard yellow. Four-top tables feature two high-backed muted gray leather chairs and two turquoise-and-gold silk covered classic wood chairs. I was impressed how the new golds, turquoises and grays don’t overwhelm the charming Old World space, but add more modern by-the-sea elements in a surprisingly subtle way.

As for the menu and the service, Five Crowns doesn’t disappoint either. Both are still superb and worthy of a trip for a leisurely dinner, special occasion or romantic interlude.

Chef Wilson’s “New” Menu

Longtime effervescent Chef Dennis Brask has retired and Five Crowns is lucky to have Chef Ryan Wilson (who just happens to be part of the founding Frank family of Lawry's restaurants fame) at the helm of the “new Five Crowns.”

We were a bit worried when we saw Chef Wilson had cut the menu down to just one page. All of our intrepidations faded away, however, when we realized this most basic menu still has all the classic Five Crowns dishes plus a few delicious new ones.

We start every Five Crowns meal with a Pimm’s Cup. This absolutely refreshing cocktail made with Pimm’s, orange, cucumber, mint, lemon, strawberries and lemon-lime soda opens the palate and gets the tongue loose for the (hopefully) lively dinner conversation.

Don’t miss ordering at least one appetizer as Chef Wilson’s summer menu is thick with excellent starters. We enjoyed the Mary Alice’s Pride Salad with its delicate lettuce, toasted pistachios, oh-so-light sheep’s milk cheese and smoky bacon lardons. Other good choices are the crispy pork belly (with roasted peaches and a lavender gastrique), Sonoma foie gras torchon (pickled bing cherries all atop toasted brioche bun) and white corn chowder (with Dungeness crab and lemon verbena).

Prime Rib Heaven Exists!

Sure, you can still get Five Crowns’ roasted Prime ribs of beef in four different cuts. (The Fred Flinstone-sized 18 oz. Henry cut is no longer on the menu, but you can still request it.) These dishes come with melt-in-your mouth hunks of Prime rib, a silver carafe of au jus, Yorkshire pudding, whipped cream organic horseradish and a classic side (creamed corn, spinach or mashed potatoes).

We found the other old and new entrées at Five Crowns are also good, serious eating for real foodies. Some love the “bricked little chicken” with buttery Yukon gold potatoes and English peas. Seafood lovers are happy with the grilled sea bass or roasted ling cod.

We tried one of Chef Wilson’s newest entrée items. The cocoa-rubbed “bistro filet of beef” was super tender and flavorful. However, we enjoyed the “cheesy faro” even more and the Bing cherry demi glace and bits of bitter arugula combined to create the perfect beef dish (especially with 2000 BV Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley). Yum!

Other signature sides such as the “Stilcheddar” macaroni and cheese, sautéed broccolini, “smashed” Yukon golds and spiced sweet carrots are worth the extra $5-7. For summer, try the summer pole beans with a lemon basil sauce.

Cheese, Please!

One of the best new things about Chef Wilson’s menu is the cheese platter. Offered before only to gastropub guests at the adjacent SideDoor, these excellent three- and five-cheese selections can start or end an always memorable meal at Five Crowns.

Or, end your relaxing dinner with dessert. We always enjoy the C.C. Brown’s hot fudge sundae or the order-early dark chocolate souflée with Devonshire-style double cream. On this visit, we gratefully gulped down the seasonal apricot and almond puff pastry “strip” with delightful brown butter gelato.

Don’t think Five Crowns will ever be the same? It won’t. Nothing stays the same. This “new” Five Crowns has not transformed the “bones” of this place one bit. The venerable old Five Crowns and its vibrant new décor and crew still brings it as a place to experience a meal worthy of your hard-earned cash.

Sheryll Alexander runs a lifestyles news media agency based in Costa Mesa, California. Follow her! @sheryllalexande

BBQ BONANZA COMES TO OC!

08.01.11

By Sheryll Alexander

Orange County isn’t usually known for its barbecue, so now’s the time to attend OC’s first Texas-sized barbecue feast: The Orange County BBQ Bonanza.

Held Aug. 18-21 at Fountain Valley Sports Park (16400 Brookhurst St.), this festival to all things barbecue boasts some of America’s best barbecue chefs as well as juicy ribs, grilled meats, savory and refreshing summer sides, non-stop live country music, a children’s area, artisan exhibits, a sports tent and beer and wine cantinas.

Really hungry? The “VIP Rib Village experience” features endless ribs, sides, drinks and desserts as well as priority seating.

OC BBQ Bonanza Schedule

Thursday, August 18: 5-10 p.m.
Friday, August 19: 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
Saturday, August 20: 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
Sunday, August 21: 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

Tickets & Ribs

One-day general admission: $5 for adults (includes free souvenir e-photo and a $2 off coupon for any sampler plate). Children 12 and under are free when accompanied by an adult.

All active United States military personnel (Army, Navy, Air Force, Marines, Coast Guard, National Guard and Reservists) receive free general admission (valid military identification required).

VIP Rib Village (see hours below) costs $100 per ticket (18 years and up only) and includes general admission, VIP designated table seating, service and all-you-can-eat ribs, salads, sides, desserts and drinks (beer, wine and sodas). Or, buy an entire VIP Rib Village table for $900 (10 seats per table).

VIP Rib Village Hours

Thursday and Friday: 5-9 p.m.

Saturday: 4-9 p.m.

Sunday: Noon-5 p.m.

Sheryll Alexander runs a news media agency based in Costa Mesa, California. Follow her! @sheryllalexande

Dining

FIVE CROWNS MODERNIZES WONDERFULLY!

08.06.11

BBQ BONANZA COMES TO OC!

08.01.11

More Daily Doses

Follow Greer on Pinterest

Subscribe to Greer's OC

from the blog

More Daily Doses