Dining

BEST ROASTED CRAB EVER AT ANQI!
09.07.11
Review by Sheryll Alexander
We were seriously wowed recently by a dinner of roasted Dungeness crabs prepared personally by Mama Helene An using her signature family recipe at the House of An’s South Coast Plaza location, AnQi Bistro.
We had heard of Mama An’s garlic-and-pepper roasted crab, which is available at AnQi only on Tuesdays during dinner service.
Why Tuesdays only? That’s the day when Master Chef and Matriarch “Mama An” travels from her home kitchens at Crustacean Beverly Hills with dozens of 2.5 lb. Pacific waters Dungeness crabs in the trunk.
Once she arrives at Costa Mesa’s AnQi Bistro, she starts cooking them in her “secret kitchen.” What’s a secret kitchen? It is literally a separate space from the main kitchen and only chefs who have worked with the family for 10 years or more can cook the real “secret family recipes,” so says Mama An.
We arrived a bit skeptical on a Tuesday night. Already, two large groups were sitting along the restaurant’s stunning catwalk crunching claws and slurping the most tender crab meat right off the shells.
Prepared in a savory Asian style with lots of oil, garlic and pepper, Mama An’s renowned roasted crabs are definitely worth the price, especially when paired with the stick-to-your-bones garlic noodles (or coconut rice for those who are cutting down on gluten) and a glass of semi-sweet Riesling.
You can order your crabs roasted in the shell ($48) or shelled ($53) for easier eating. Mama An recommended the shelled crab as she says it is more juicy. We must agree. After a few minutes, we were cracking away, sucking meat and licking our fingers just like everyone else without a care as to our fashionable surroundings.
Because Mama An only brings a limited amount of crabs on Tuesdays, guests are advised to reserve the dish at least 24 hours in advance (dinner only).
AnQi by Crustacean, Bloomingdale’s at South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St. Costa Mesa, 714-557-5679, http://anqibistro.com/.
Sheryll Alexander runs a news media agency based in Costa Mesa, California. Follow her! @sheryllalexande or on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sheryll-Alexander/252517508109644.

WE LOVE STARFISH LAGUNA TAKE OUT!
09.04.11
Review by Sheryll Alexander
Now that summer is over and weekday evenings seem to be exhausting, Starfish Laguna brings fine Asian fusion cuisine to your car door. We recently tried this fabulous take-out service by renowned Laguna restaurateur Nancy Wilhelm, who also runs Laguna's award-winning Tabu Grill.
Yes, our family thoroughly enjoyed a Starfish Laguna feast after a long, stressful day. Isn’t it amazing how some Thai-inspired food can perk up your spirits so?
We started our palates dancing with light-as-air, yet savory “ma po” tofu lettuce wraps. The kids loved the hearty Kobe beef sliders. The highlight of the appetizer course, however, was the creamy wok-fried mussels swimming in a delectable basil coconut curry broth (along with bell peppers, roasted garlic, micro leeks and crushed lemongrass).
We were also impressed with the wild mushroom garlic noodles (YUM!), “yu sang” eggplant (a stew-like entrée eaten with jasmine, brown or coconut rice) and curried pork satay skewers (also comes in chicken teriyaki, lemongrass filet or green curry chicken skewers).
The star of the meal for everyone around the kitchen table was the slow-cooked, five-spice baby back ribs. These fall-off-the-bone ribs were more spicy than sweet with just the right balance of crunchy bits, tender flesh and fatty goodness.
Starfish Laguna, 30832 S. Pacific Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach, 949-715-9200, www.starfishlaguna.com.
Sheryll Alexander runs a news media agency based in Costa Mesa, California. Follow her! @sheryllalexande or on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sheryll-Alexander/252517508109644.
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